Wool and cashmere sweaters can feel wonderful and last for many seasons, but they need gentle handling. Hot water, rough washing and hanging can shrink, stretch or felt the fibres. The good news is that caring for knitwear is not difficult once you know the basics.

Always start by reading the care label. Some pieces are labelled for dry cleaning only, and some can be machine washed on a wool cycle. If the label and this guide disagree, follow the label.

Wear less, wash less

Wool naturally resists odours better than many fibres, so knitwear often does not need washing after every wear.

  • Air it out. After wearing, lay the piece flat or drape it over a chair in a well ventilated room.
  • Spot clean small marks with a little cool water and a gentle detergent.
  • Wear a layer underneath, such as a cotton top, to reduce how often the sweater needs washing.

Washing less often helps knitwear keep its softness and shape.

Hand washing

Hand washing is the gentlest option for most wool and cashmere, if the label allows it.

  1. Fill a clean basin with cool or lukewarm water. Avoid hot water.
  2. Add a small amount of detergent made for wool or delicates.
  3. Turn the piece inside out and submerge it.
  4. Gently press the water through the fabric. Do not rub, twist or wring.
  5. Leave it to soak briefly, following the detergent instructions.
  6. Drain and rinse in clean water of the same temperature. Sudden changes in temperature can encourage felting.
  7. Press out the water gently against the side of the basin.

Machine washing

Some knitwear can go in the machine. Only do this if the label says so.

  • Use the wool or delicate cycle.
  • Choose cool water and a low spin.
  • Use a detergent made for wool.
  • Place the piece in a mesh laundry bag for extra protection.

Drying

How you dry knitwear matters as much as how you wash it.

  • Remove excess water by laying the piece on a clean towel, rolling the towel up and pressing gently.
  • Dry flat. Unroll and lay the piece on a dry towel or drying rack. Gently reshape it to its original size.
  • Keep it away from direct heat and strong sunlight.
  • Never hang wet knitwear. The weight of the water can stretch it out of shape.
  • Avoid the tumble dryer unless the label specifically allows it.

Dealing with pilling

Pilling, the small balls of fibre that appear on the surface, is common with soft knitwear, especially in areas that rub, such as under the arms and on the sides.

  • Pilling is not necessarily a sign of poor quality, though some fabrics pill more than others.
  • Remove pills gently with a fabric comb or a small fabric shaver designed for knitwear.
  • Work slowly and lightly, with the garment laid flat, to avoid damaging the fibres.

Storage

Good storage keeps knitwear in shape and helps protect it from pests.

  • Fold, do not hang. Hanging can stretch shoulders and create bumps.
  • Store clean. Moths and other pests are attracted to fibres with traces of food or body oils.
  • Use breathable storage, such as cotton bags or boxes. Avoid sealing knitwear in plastic for long periods if it might trap moisture.
  • Consider natural deterrents such as cedar blocks or lavender sachets, and check stored pieces now and then.
  • Give it room. Avoid packing knitwear too tightly.

Fixing small problems

  • Snags. Gently ease a pulled loop back into place from the inside with a blunt needle, rather than cutting it.
  • Small holes. These can often be darned or repaired by a specialist.
  • Lost shape. Sometimes washing and reshaping while drying flat can help.

Gentle care, lasting softness

Caring for wool and cashmere comes down to a few principles: wash less, use cool water, handle gently, dry flat and store folded and clean. With these habits, your favourite knitwear can stay soft and beautiful for many winters.